Schartenfluh, Gempen

A rock climbing day at the Schartenfluh above Gempen, in the Basler Jura. February, so we stayed on the sunny sectors. Thanks to Karl Stransky for the pictures.

Schartenfluh (Gempen), 759 m / W–SE facing

Sport climbing, ~157 routes in 8 sectors, 3a–7c+ / single pitches, walls 12–35 m / limestone

The Schartenfluh is the crag right under the Gempenturm, the high point of the Basler Jura and the most obvious place to go when Basel is under fog. Limestone, mostly single pitches on walls of 12 to 35 m, spread over eight sectors facing west through south-east, so something is always in the sun and the rock dries fast. It is pocketed and full of hourglass threads, polished in the popular parts.

I did not note which lines we did, so no grades from me here — the crag as a whole runs 3a to 7c+ over roughly 157 routes.

Logistics

Approach

Park in Gempen village and walk up towards the Gempenturm; 25 to 35 minutes, about 75 m of gain, easy path (T1).