Verklemmter Bergschuh - Klein Furkahorn

Verklemmter Bergschuh, 5c, on the Klein Furkahorn. A very nice climb — thanks to Ula for the adventure.

Klein Furkahorn, 3026 m / Verklemmter Bergschuh, Westplatten (W)

5c (5c+ in some sources) / ~13 pitches / Urner granite / from the Furka Pass

The Klein Furkahorn is 3026 m on the Uri-Valais border, right above the Furka Pass and east of the Rhone Glacier. The Verklemmter Bergschuh runs up the Westplatten, the long sweep of Urner granite on the west flank — slabby, well-bolted plaisir climbing, and one of the harder lines there at 5c. Sources put it at around thirteen pitches; a 5a variant, Holldrio, sidesteps the crux and is often linked into the longer Glacier Express combination.

Descriptions differ on the total height of the line (roughly 370-470 m depending on the source), so it is worth carrying the Filidor topo rather than relying on one number.

Logistics

Approach

Park on the Furkastrasse around P. 2385, below the pass. The service road and then the trail past the military structures lead up to the foot of the west slabs in about 1:20 h, with blue markers showing the way — the same approach as the other routes on this side of the mountain.