Tormo Gros, La Mola de Montesa

A short December day on the Tormo Gros at Montesa, an hour south of Valencia. Easy limestone, and with faces pointing every direction there is always one in the sun. Thanks to Ula for the belays.

Tormo Gros, La Mola de Montesa / north face

Sport, mostly 4 and 5 on the north face, up to 6b+ (whole crag 4 to 7a+) / single pitch / 10-15 m / porous limestone

The Tormo Gros is a freestanding block below the castle ruins, bolted on all four faces, so there is always something in shade or in sun. The north side, where we spent most of the day, is mostly grade 4 and 5 with a few harder overhanging lines at the right-hand end. The rock is porous, pocketed limestone, abrasive on the fingers.

I did not keep track of what we climbed — it is that kind of place, one short route after another, all well bolted with flat ground at the base. Across the whole Mola de Montesa the sectors hold well over a hundred routes from 4 to 7a+. Bring your own gear for lowering off; the fixed rings see a lot of traffic.

Logistics

Approach

Montesa is around 70 km south of Valencia (A-7, exit 37). Park by the castle ruins; a path from behind the old refuge reaches the rock in a couple of minutes.