The Gianleo on the Croda Negra — Punta Gallina — above the Passo Giau: six pitches, 192 m, graded D, V-, and one of the most climbed lines on the mountain.

Croda Negra (Punta Gallina) — Gianleo, Passo Giau

D, V- / 6 pitches / 192 m / S–SSW face

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The route falls into three parts: cracks and chimneys for the first three pitches, then easy ground through the middle, and finally the vertical summit wall. That last section is really beautiful climbing — the reason to come here. The sixth pitch trends slightly right to the exit, with the belay at the summit itself.

From the top, a picturesque view out over the pass.

Logistics

Approach

From the Passo Giau road, stop at Rifugio Fedare and take the mule track passing under the cable car; after about 100 m branch right onto the trail and follow it to a tabià. Around half an hour to the foot of the wall.