NE Ridge - Chli Bielenhorn

Solo on the Chli Bielenhorn, the small granite tooth above the Furka. I took the NE ridge on my own and let the day run long, coming down off the mountain after dark.

Chli Bielenhorn, 2940 m / NE ridge

Alpine tour, hardest sections III (UIAA) / Gear: alpine granite rack

The granite up here is the reason you come: rough, gripping, warm underhand even late in the day. The line stays on or near the crest most of the way, with the summit block the obvious finish. I couldn’t find it described anywhere in the guides — a wild, improvised tour, with the hardest steps around grade III. I topped out later than planned and took the descent in the dark, headtorch on, picking down familiar ground back toward the Furka road.

Logistics

Parking

Roadside parking along the Furkapass road (Tiefenbach / Albert-Heim-Hütte trailhead area).

Approach

From the Furkapass road on the east side, up to the Albert-Heim-Hütte and on toward the foot of the peak; the hut approach from the road is roughly 1.5 h over slopes below the Tiefengletscher.