Long Slabs - Klein Furkahorn

Multipitch climbing on the long slabs of the Klein Furkahorn, above the Furka Pass. I never wrote down which line we followed — on this flank the slab tiers run into one another and you link them as you find them.

Klein Furkahorn, 3026 m / West side slabs

Up to 5a / 23-25 rope lengths depending on the line / Uri granite

Approach from P. 2385 on the Furka Pass road, about 1 km past Hotel Belvedere

The west flank is not one wall but a stack of granite tiers — laid back low down, steepening higher, broken by ledges rather than cracks. Almost all of it is friction and edging on features. Depending on which stances you count there are somewhere between 23 and 25 rope lengths available, and nothing on this side goes above 5a.

Rock quality picks up with height: a bit variable in the lower tiers, then excellent rough Furka granite on the upper slabs. Since I can’t say which line we linked, that range is all I’ll claim for the day.

Logistics

Approach

Park at P. 2385 on the Furka Pass road, roughly 1 km past Hotel Belvedere, then track traces left to the foot of the slabs. Around 200 m of ascent.