Südgrat - Gletschhorn

The Gletschhorn stands at 3305 m above the Tiefengletscher on the Uri side of the Furka pass, and its south ridge is one of the better-known granite ridge climbs in the area. The approach starts from the Tätsch parking area on the Furka road, below the Albert-Heim-Hütte, and the climbing is on the rough, coarse-grained granite the region is known for.

Gletschhorn, 3305 m / Südgrat (south ridge)

4b (4a obligatory) / ~10 pitches / ~380 m of climbing / coarse-grained Urner granite

The ridge itself gives around ten pitches and roughly 380 metres of climbing on coarse-grained Urner granite, with the hardest moves reported at 4b and the obligatory climbing a grade below that. The line follows the crest more or less directly: cracks, flakes and blocks lower down, with slabby friction sections mixed in, and the rock is consistently described as rough and solid. Protection is a mix of fixed gear and what you place yourself — most descriptions recommend carrying slings, nuts and cams roughly in the 0.5–2 range, since the bolting is spaced and nearly every pitch wants supplementary protection.

Logistics

Approach

Park at Tätsch on the Furka road (parking fee) or take the postbus to Hotel Tiefenbach. From Tätsch follow the path towards the Albert-Heim-Hütte, then continue over scree, moraine and firn below the Tiefengletscher to the foot of the ridge — around 2.5 hours, or about 1.5 hours if you start from the hut. The final section to the ridge is steep snow or firn depending on conditions and time of year. Climbing time for the ridge is usually given as 3–4 hours.