Allalinhorn – Normal Route + Feechopf Ridge

Allalinhorn 4027 m + Feechopf 3888 m

WS, II / Allalinhorn normal route from Mittelallalin (WS-, ~570 m ↗) + Feechopf SE ridge from the Feejoch (PD, II)

The Allalinhorn is about the shortest way there is to a 4000er: the Metro Alpin lifts you to Mittelallalin at 3456 m, and from there it’s a short glacier plod up the Feegletscher to the Feejoch and on to the summit at 4027 m. Easy underfoot, but the glacier is crevassed and wants roping up and a bit of attention. From the Feejoch the neighbouring Feechopf is right there across the col, so we linked it on via its ridge.

Looking back across the glacier to the Allalinhorn, the normal-route track switchbacking up the snow, from the Feechopf ridge.

The Feechopf ridge is the more interesting half of the day. The rock is schist — layered, blocky and loose — so it’s the kind of crest where you test each hold before you trust it, and it’s easy scrambling at UIAA II with a couple of towers that can be climbed over or turned on the side.

On the Feechopf’s schist crest — flaky, layered rock, with a few small towers along the ridge.

Conditions

• Glacier: plenty of open crevasses and a few seracs on the Feegletscher — straightforward line, but not somewhere to wander unroped.
• Warm, sunny day. Meltwater pools were already forming on the glacier down by the piste.
• Feechopf ridge: dry rock, no snow on the crest, but loose throughout.

The Allalinhorn’s glaciated dome and the crevassed Feegletscher above Mittelallalin, with a turquoise meltwater pool at the glacier’s edge.

Route

• Allalinhorn normal route from Mittelallalin (WNW ridge) on the SAC route portal — PD-, ~570 m of ascent, 2:15–3 h; a short glacier route with crevasse hazard.
• Feechopf on the SAC route portal — 3888 m, reached by the ridge from the Feejoch (PD, II).
• Background: Allalinhorn normal route and Feechopf on SummitPost.

Thanks to Dani for the day out, and for the photos.