Lenzspitze 4294 m – Nadelhorn 4327 m, ENE-Grat und Überschreitung (from the Mischabelhütte)

ZS, 3c / ~8.5–10 h round trip / ~1130 m ↗ / ENE-Grat (rock to 3c) → traverse (3a) → Nadelhorn NE-Grat descent (2a)

A grand alpine horseshoe in the Mischabel group above Saas-Fee, linking two 4000ers from the Mischabelhütte. The Lenzspitze (4294 m — called “Südlenz” in the Saastal) is climbed by its ENE-Grat, an airy, alpinistically interesting rock ridge with some very fine climbing in good rock, then the classic Überschreitung over the Nadeljoch to the Nadelhorn (4327 m), descending the Nadelhorn NE-Grat over the Windjoch back to the hut. First ascent of the Lenzspitze by W.W. Graham with the guides Theodor Andenmatten and Ambros Supersaxo, 3 August 1882.

The rock high on the ENE-Grat is loose, and the route is committing: as the SAC warns, retreating along the ridge if the weather breaks is a bad idea — immer vorwärts. (Not to be confused with the Lenzspitze NO-Wand, the famous ~50–55° NE ice face, which is a harder, separate ascent — S+ — that finishes on the same traverse.)

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Route

Approach — Mischabelhütte → Hohbalmgletscher (1 h)

  • From the Mischabelhütte AACZ (3340 m) a path leads over a Felsrippe up to the Hohbalmgletscher, entered just below P. 3618 (~3600 m).

Lenzspitze ENE-Grat (ZS, 3c; hut → summit 4–5 h)

  • Follow the firn rib SW (no difficulty) to the start of the rock ridge at P. 3814, ½ h.
  • Climb the ridge over the flakes on the right (N) side to a first steep step; traverse a few metres left (S) and through a short couloir to the saddle at the foot of the big Gendarme.
  • The Gendarme’s slabs (very hard when iced, fine on dry rock) are climbed direct to its top (~4091 m, 3c; ~3 bolts in this section). A short abseil (SAC: 4 m) leads to a horizontal ridge to the “Frühstücksplatz”, 1½ h.
  • From the Frühstücksplatz go straight up first, then right onto the ridge into a gap, and follow the crest (3) — avoid the inviting left-rising band, which leads into really brittle rock. A flatter section, then a fine, partly narrow firn ridge (up to ~50–55° near the top) leads to the summit (4294 m), 1½ h.

Traverse Lenzspitze → Nadelhorn (ZS, 3a; 2–2.5 h)

  • Descend the easy NW-Grat to the Nadeljoch (4211 m); the ridge is sometimes firn/ice-covered and narrow, crampons occasionally needed, ½ h.
  • Follow the rocky SE-Grat over four larger and many smaller towers — all easier than they look, climbed direct in mostly good, grippy gneiss (3). The larger towers are rappelled off Sicherungsstangen (their slabby back sides can be hard when iced). Reach the Nadelhorn (4327 m), 1.5 h.

Descent — Nadelhorn NE-Grat → Windjoch → Mischabelhütte (WS, 2a; 2.5 h)

  • From the Nadelhorn follow the NE-Grat (rock, then firn/snow) over P. 4114 down to the Windjoch (3845 m).
  • Descend the Hohbalmgletscher back to the hut — watch for crevasses (they lie across the direction of travel near the Windjoch, sometimes snow-covered); rockfall has been reported at the Windjoch.

Gear

  • A 50 m rope: 30 m is enough for the ENE-Grat itself, but the tower rappels on the traverse need up to 50 m (a 40 m rope has been reported too short).
  • Cams, a few pitons/pegs and long slings — fixed protection is sparse between the bolts and the Sicherungsstangen.
  • Crampons and ice axe (an adze helps on the icy summit firn); full glacier kit for the Hohbalmgletscher.
  • Helmet — loose rock high on the ENE-Grat and rockfall potential at the Windjoch.

Conditions

  • The swing factor is the summit firn ridge (~50–55°, ~100 m): good step-snow in early/mid season, turning hard and then bare ice later in summer, when difficulty rises sharply (ice screws or a rock alternative needed). Keep to the crest for the best rock.
  • 12.07.2026 (ENE-Grat): perfect conditions, route free of snow/ice; crampons only for the Nadelhorn descent; rockfall flagged at the Windjoch (keep well to the outside).
  • 11.08.2025 (ENE-Grat): excellent, ridge snow-free to the first gendarme; note that “besides the Sicherungsstangen there’s basically nothing” for protection on the transition to the Nadelhorn.
  • 24.08.2024 (ENE-Grat): excellent, both ridges fully snow-free; the short summit firn slowly melting to hard/icy.
  • 20.07.2023 (ENE-Grat): rock consistently very good and dry; the ~100 m summit firn passable but deteriorating toward bare ice.
  • 25.08.2019 (ENE-Grat): rockfall event ~2 weeks earlier left an unstable rock packet above the ascent line — the hut warden advised against climbing it (condition-dependent; confirm before an attempt).
  • 04.08.2010 (ENE-Grat): heavy fresh snow, wintry down to ~2800 m, sparse fixed protection — inadvisable.
  • Always confirm the current state with the Mischabelhütte.

SAC

Gipfelbuch – route & peak pages

Gipfelbuch – condition reports (ENE-Grat)

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