Schreckhorn 4078 m – Lauteraarhorn 4042 m, Lauteraargrat (Abstieg über Schraubengang)

S+, 4a / 11–13 h ↗, 4–5 h ↘ / ~2250 m ↗ / round trip from Schreckhornhütte, ridge to 4a, compact gneiss

A long, committing high-alpine ridge traverse in the Bernese Alps linking the Schreckhorn (4078 m) to the Lauteraarhorn (4042 m) — per the SAC one of the finest ridge tours in the range, and only for experienced, enduring alpinists. It is almost always done in this direction, and was first climbed by Helene Kuntze with Peter and Rudolf Bernet on 24 July 1902. From the Schreckhornhütte (2530 m) one climbs the Schreckhorn by its SW ridge (normal route), then follows the Lauteraargrat over continuously excellent, slabby compact gneiss to the Lauteraarhorn. SAC gives 11–13 h of ascent and 4–5 h of descent for ~2250 m of gain, round trip from the Schreckhornhütte.

From the Lauteraarhorn the SAC-standard descent follows the Normalroute through the Südwandcouloir down to the Aarbiwak (2731 m). To return instead to the Schreckhornhütte you either reascend ~2 h to the Strahleggpass, or take the variant detailed below — the notorious Schraubengang, a loose, rockfall-prone and route-finding-intensive gully-and-rib system on the S/SW flank that can be heikel depending on conditions. Only attempt the traverse in settled weather with a fast, competent team; full-day outings of ~14 h or more are common.

The ridge runs roughly SE (Schreckhorn) to NW (Lauteraarhorn) — the Lauteraargrat / Nordwestgrat of the Lauteraarhorn — while the descent flank faces S/SW. The rock on the ridge is compact and excellent; the flanks and Schraubengang are notably brittle and loose.

Crux

  • Steps to 4a on the towers of the connecting ridge
  • Route-finding and rockfall on the Schraubengang descent
  • Sustained exposure, length and commitment on a remote 4000 m ridge

Logistics

Gear

  • 30 m rope
  • Cams ~0.3/0.5–1
  • Slings / Zackenschlingen for spike belays
  • Standard glacier/alpine kit; crampons and axe for firn

Route (Schreckhorn → Lauteraarhorn)

  • Start from the Schreckhornhütte SAC (2530 m), Grindelwald; ascend the Schreckhorn via its SW ridge (normal route). Rule of thumb (SAC): be on the Schreckhorn summit by 07:00 if you intend to do the Lauteraargrat — if you are later, turn back.
  • From the Schreckhorn the Lauteraargrat begins: follow the airy crest to the Vorgipfel (possible cornices), then down the steep ridge; downclimb the first towers directly to a first iron peg (Eisenstift), then follow the further pegs a few metres below the crest on the N side into the Schrecksattel (3913 m) — ~1 h from the Schreckhorn.
  • Continue along the ridge, climbing all the bumps directly where possible (steps to 4a), over P. 4013 m to the main summit of the Lauteraarhorn (4042 m).

Descent — Schraubengang (~4 h, the crux of the day)

The Schraubengang (“screw passage”) spirals down the brittle S/SW flank of the Lauteraarhorn. It is consistently reported as the hardest part to find and the most dangerous stretch of the whole tour — plan it as carefully as the ascent.

  • SAC-standard alternative: from the summit descend the Lauteraarhorn Normalroute through the Südwandcouloir to the Aarbiwak SAC (2731 m) — the usual line if you are not returning to the Schreckhornhütte.
  • To return towards the Schreckhornhütte via the Schraubengang: from the Lauteraarhorn descend the SE ridge to the saddle below pt. 3918, then follow a cairned rib westwards down to ~3800 m, where a cairn marks an abrupt ramp dropping into the Schraubengang (at the foot of a tower a gully drops off to the right).
  • The Schraubengang itself traverses slightly upwards across almost the entire south face on faint tracks and cairns — counter-intuitive, so when in doubt keep far right (looking down).
  • Exit the face down the steep, very brittle NW flank by a mix of rappels and downclimbing on iron rungs (Sicherungsstangen installed in 2017), sling anchors and the occasional bolt. The rungs are easy to miss — several parties report failing to find them — so budget time for route-finding.
  • Regain the SW ridge and follow it (partly on faint tracks just below the crest), deviating right/NE to avoid the lowest ridge steps, over pt. 3428 down to the Strahleggpass (3332 m).
  • From the Strahleggpass rejoin the Schreckhorn normal route back to the Schreckhornhütte.
  • Hazard: loose rock and rockfall throughout (“Cave Geröll!”); the face is snow-free and most brittle in high/late summer, whereas early season the gullies still hold firmer snow and ice. Only attempt in settled weather with a fast team.
  • Timings run long: one party summited 07:35 and reached the Strahleggpass only at 11:45 (~4 h from the summit to the pass), for roughly 9 h total from summit to valley.

Conditions

  • 23.08.2024: perfect, dry conditions (“perfekte Verhältnisse”)
  • 24.08.2021: super conditions, dry and relatively warm
  • 23.07.2023: approach glacier snow-free, ascent to Schreckhorn without difficulty
  • 27.06.2025: south flank heavy old snow, firn too soft for screws/steps — early season makes it a mixed undertaking
  • 19.08.2012: Schraubengang / south flank completely snow-free and very brittle (“sehr bröselig”)
  • Schraubengang consistently described as stone-fall-prone and hard to find