Schreckhorn 4078 m – Lauteraarhorn 4042 m, Lauteraargrat (Abstieg über Schraubengang)

S+ / ~12 h from Schreckhornhütte / ~1500 m ↗ / ridge II–III (steps IV), compact gneiss, Schraubengang descent

A long, committing high-alpine ridge traverse in the Bernese Alps linking the Schreckhorn (4078 m) to the Lauteraarhorn (4042 m). From the Schreckhornhütte one climbs the Schreckhorn by its SW ridge (normal route, ~4.5 h), then follows the Lauteraargrat — a sequence of numerous towers and gendarmes on continuously excellent, slabby compact gneiss climbed mostly at II–III with occasional grade-IV steps — to the Lauteraarhorn. SAC gives 4–6 h for the connecting ridge. The traverse is graded S+ overall (the connecting ridge alone is often cited as ZS+).

Descent is via the SE/SW ridge and the notorious Schraubengang, a cairn-marked gully-and-rib system that is loose, rockfall-prone and route-finding intensive (~4 h). About 1500 m of gain and roughly 12 h from the hut; only in settled weather with fast rope teams. Full-day outings of ~14 h or more are common. Many parties reverse it (Lauteraarhorn first) to avoid the Schraubengang descent and afternoon soft snow.

The ridge runs roughly SE (Schreckhorn) to NW (Lauteraarhorn) — the Lauteraargrat / Nordwestgrat of the Lauteraarhorn — while the descent flank faces S/SW. The rock on the ridge is compact and excellent; the flanks and Schraubengang are notably brittle and loose.

Crux

  • Grade-IV steps on the towers of the connecting ridge
  • Route-finding and rockfall on the Schraubengang descent
  • Sustained exposure, length and commitment on a remote 4000 m ridge

Logistics

Gear

  • 30 m rope
  • Cams ~0.3/0.5–1
  • Slings / Zackenschlingen for spike belays
  • Standard glacier/alpine kit; crampons and axe for firn

Approach

  • Start from the Schreckhornhütte SAC (2530 m), Grindelwald
  • Ascend the Schreckhorn via its SW ridge (normal route), ~4.5 h to the summit
  • From the summit start the connecting ridge (Lauteraargrat) to the Lauteraarhorn

Descent — Schraubengang (~4 h, the crux of the day)

The Schraubengang (“screw passage”) spirals down the brittle S/SW flank of the Lauteraarhorn. It is consistently reported as the hardest part to find and the most dangerous stretch of the whole tour — plan it as carefully as the ascent.

  • From the Lauteraarhorn descend the SE ridge to the saddle below pt. 3918, then follow a cairned rib westwards down to ~3800 m, where a cairn marks an abrupt ramp dropping into the Schraubengang (at the foot of a tower a gully drops off to the right).
  • The Schraubengang itself traverses slightly upwards across almost the entire south face on faint tracks and cairns — counter-intuitive, so when in doubt keep far right (looking down).
  • Exit the face down the steep, very brittle NW flank by a mix of rappels and downclimbing on iron rungs (Sicherungsstangen installed in 2017), sling anchors and the occasional bolt. The rungs are easy to miss — several parties report failing to find them — so budget time for route-finding.
  • Regain the SW ridge and follow it (partly on faint tracks just below the crest), deviating right/NE to avoid the lowest ridge steps, over pt. 3428 down to the Strahleggjoch (3332 m).
  • From the Strahleggjoch rejoin the Schreckhorn normal route back to the Schreckhornhütte.
  • Hazard: loose rock and rockfall throughout (“Cave Geröll!”); the face is snow-free and most brittle in high/late summer, whereas early season the gullies still hold firmer snow and ice. Only attempt in settled weather with a fast team.
  • Timings run long: one party summited 07:35 and reached the Strahleggpass only at 11:45 (~4 h from the summit to the pass), for roughly 9 h total from summit to valley.

Conditions

  • 23.08.2024: perfect, dry conditions (“perfekte Verhältnisse”)
  • 24.08.2021: super conditions, dry and relatively warm
  • 23.07.2023: approach glacier snow-free, ascent to Schreckhorn without difficulty
  • 27.06.2025: south flank heavy old snow, firn too soft for screws/steps — early season makes it a mixed undertaking
  • 19.08.2012: Schraubengang / south flank completely snow-free and very brittle (“sehr bröselig”)
  • Schraubengang consistently described as stone-fall-prone and hard to find