Grassen 2945 m, Südwand

ZS (III+) / ~4.5 h / ~800-1050 hm ↗ / ~5-7 SL (3 SL wandartiger Vorbau + 4 SL Grat), S-facing granite

The Südwand is the classic mixed alpine outing on the Grassen (2945/2946 m) above the Sustenpass / Gadmertal. From the Sustlihütte the approach crosses to the Grassenjoch (2733 m) over the Stössenfirn glacier, then the route breaks into a lower wall section (wandartiger Vorbau) and an upper ridge (Grat) to the summit. Gipfelbuch grades it ZS with rock climbing to III+; pitch breakdown given as 3 SL wandartiger Vorbau III+, a Blockrücken / Gehgelände, then 4 SL Grat zum Gipfel III+.

A second, more detailed Gipfelbuch topo of the wall itself breaks the climbing into 35 m 3a, 35 m 3b, 30 m 3a in the lower wandartig section, ~10 min scree, then 30 m 3b and 35 m 2 on the grätchenartig upper part before easier terrain. The rock is granite with drilled anchors that can be supplemented with cams/Friends; bolt spacing is reported as generous. Best season is roughly June-October.

Crux

  • The III+ / 3b pitches in the lower wall and on the summit ridge; sustained but short.
  • Route-finding and the glacier crossing to the Grassenjoch are the alpine cruxes, not the rock.

Logistics

Gear

  • Gletscherausrüstung (glacier gear): rope, ice axe, crampons for the Stössenfirn / Grassenjoch.
  • For the climbing: ~6 Express, a few slings; optionally wenige Keile und Camalots (only few placement options - route mostly relies on drilled anchors).

Approach

  • From Sustenbrüggli via Firenplangg to Stöss, following the weiss-blau-weiss (blue-white) markings toward Guferjoch.
  • Then, depending on glacier / firn conditions, ascend west of Pt. 2318 (Wegspuren) over the glacier to the Grassenjoch at 2733 m, where the Südwand begins.
  • Base is the Sustlihütte SAC (2257 m); the Grassenbiwak (2647 m) is an alternative bivouac.

Descent

  • Via the normal route / NE (ENE) ridge from the summit down to the Stössensattel, then back over the Stössenfirn to the Sustlihütte and Sustenbrüggli, making a round trip.
  • Reports mention a fixed-rope descent section near the Stössenjoch that demands care.

Conditions

  • 20.06.2026 (Gipfelbuch): abundant firn on the glacier, snow-free climbing terrain; rock becomes brittle off-route (one party dislodged a large stone).
  • 19.08.2025 (Gipfelbuch): rock dry and snow-free; glacier ascent with few crevasses; large spacing between fixed anchors.
  • 18.08.2023 (Gipfelbuch): problem-free glacier access, griffig ice needing crampons, minimal crevasses, dry rock; soft snow on descent; the fixed-rope descent at the Stössenjoch demands strength and proper gear.
  • 12.08.2018 (Gipfelbuch): soft firn/glacier, crampons not strictly necessary after ~09:00, ice axe still useful for the descent.
  • 01.06.2020 (Gipfelbuch): Südwand dry with excellent climbing; approach still had some unpleasant snow; upper glacier well consolidated, no visible crevasses.