Grosses Gelmerhorn 2630 m, Chli und Grosses Gelmerhorn Überschreitung

5a (obl. 4b, single pitch 5a; III–IV overall) / ~6 h from the Gelmerhütte and back / S→N traverse / best Grimsel granite

A classic, magnificent granite traverse of the two southernmost Gelmerhörner above the Gelmersee, climbed from S to N. It begins at the südliche Gelmerlücke at the foot of the Süd-Grat of the Chli (Kleines) Gelmerhorn, crosses over the Kleines Gelmerhorn, drops into the Gelmersattel, and finishes up the Grosses Gelmerhorn (2631 m). The rock is excellent, if lichen-covered in places.

The nominal difficulties are moderate (mostly 4b with one 5a pitch) but should not be underestimated: long, exposed slab sections (grade II) are hard to protect, bolts are sparse, and the approach and descent are the alpine crux. Reports consistently stress this is a serious, long, alpine day, not a plaisir route.

Crux

  • Steilaufschwung / south flank step graded 4a, then a chimney past a “Schuppe” (flake).
  • The “Gelmersprung” — a jump across a rock gap, reported at ~2.30 m wide.
  • Long exposed slab traverses (II) that are hard to protect between the bolt-sparse pitches.

Logistics

Gear

  • Rope: 50 m (multiple 25 m rappels; June report notes 2×50 m then 2×25 m stretches)
  • Friends 0.5–2 (described as “unentbehrlich” / indispensable)
  • A few pitons/pegs and several slings in addition to the fixed bolt anchors

Approach

  • Base is the Gelmerhütte SAC (~2200 m). From the hut descend to the mittlere Diechter, then climb the deepest rock gully (Rinne) up to the südliche Gelmerlücke — steep, loose (grade 2–3), roughly 1.5–2 h; rated up to T5/T6 and hard to find (sparse cairns and red dots).
  • Reach the hut from the Gelmerbahn funicular (Handegg → Gelmersee, 12 min; runs June–October), then ~1 h 45–2 h / ~550 m along the south shore of the Gelmersee. Alternatively on foot from the Chüenzentennlen car park.

Descent

  • From the Grosses Gelmerhorn descend the easier rocks of the Nord-Grat toward the nördliche Gelmerlücke, with rappels off both summits (30 m rappel off the Kleines into the Gelmersattel; further ~25 m rappels lower down).
  • Continue over slab terrain back to the mittlere Diechter and the hut. The final section below the last rappel is confusing; avoid the steinschlägige (rockfall-prone) gully. Very alpine, easy to underestimate.

Conditions

  • 01.09.2024 — Ausgezeichnet. Surprisingly problem-free and beautiful; the rockfall-prone approach to the südliche Gelmerlücke was less tricky than feared (vegetation overgrown). Excellent rock at both summits. Last rappel / descent route unclear; ended in a steinschlägige Rinne.
  • 31.07.2022 — Ausgezeichnet, main objective reached. Relatively dry despite rain the day before; approach gullies mostly wet but the slabs dry. Some lichen reducing friction; high grass on the ridge. Gelmersprung reported ~2.30 m.
  • 16.06.2024 — “Noch etwas zu früh für diese Route.” Much snow in ascent and descent; wet, tricky approach and route-finding over snowfields; anchors poorly equipped with old rope remnants. Easier once the snow melts.
  • 11.08.2013 — Rock entirely dry (climbing to 5b); Friends indispensable. Approach/descent very heikel after rain and hard to find. “Sehr alpine Tour, auf keinen Fall zu unterschätzen.”
  • 20.06.2005 — Very long alpine day in partly “Abenteuergelände.” Wet slabs with poor friction, snowfield in the brüchiges Couloir to the saddle, sparse single-bolt stances; demanding approach and descent.