The hard one. Steep columns on the east, sunny side of the Valeille, which is why it is a January route and not a March one — the sunny aspect is the first to go rotten. This sits above the WI4 I have actually climbed, so it is the objective to earn rather than the one to turn up and do: Cascade de Lillaz and Lillaz Gully first, then decide.

Valeille, Tuborg

WI4+/5 / multi-pitch / East-facing, sunny

Logistics

Approach
  • Park at Lillaz (45.5941, 7.3901). Walk the valley floor of the Valeille — follow the cross-country piste on the hydrographic left, then the path.
  • 15-45 minutes depending on how far up the valley you are going. Every fall in the Valeille is visible from the walk in, so you can judge conditions on the way.

Notes

  • The upper pitches do not form every year. Mountain Spirit Guides flag this for both Tuborg and the neighbouring Candelabro del Coyote — check what is actually touching down before committing.
  • East-facing and sunny. Well formed in January; softens through the afternoon once the sun reaches it, and goes rotten late season. Early start, off before the sun works on it.
  • Grade is reported anywhere from 4+ to 5 depending on source and conditions.
  • The neighbouring Candelabro del Coyote (WI4+/5) is the obvious swap if Tuborg is out of condition — same aspect, same approach, same caveat.