East Rib of the Main Summit - Dammastock, 3630 m

AD+, 3b / 6–10 SL / 5–7 h round trip (~3 h climbing), ~1200 m ↗ / Granite/gneiss

Rewarding, combined high-altitude tour in an impressive high mountain landscape.

The Ostrippe is the classic rock rib on the east side of the Dammastock main summit, reached from the Dammahütte above the Göscheneralp. After a glacier approach up the crevassed Dammagletscher to the foot of the rib (a short firn crest near P.3216), the route climbs the rib in roughly 6–10 short pitches of enjoyable AD+ rock (2a–3b). Solid bolted belay anchors sit at regular ~25 m intervals, so the line can also be rappelled with a 50 m rope. The rock is brittle at the very start and finish but genuinely good and pleasurable in the middle; a helmet is essential due to rockfall. Usually done as a two-day trip with a night at the Dammahütte, away from the crowds.

Crux

  • Brittle rock on the first and last pitches (loose stone, rockfall — helmet essential).
  • Short steep/icy snow-ice step below the rock entry that can be bare and airy late season.
  • Route-finding on the crevassed Dammagletscher as it melts out (snow bridges near ~2900 m).
  • A slabby pitch on the rib with sparse holds noted by several parties.

Logistics

Gear

  • The most important belays are equipped with bolts.
  • Slings, friends, nuts.
  • Rope 30 m minimum; 50–60 m recommended to rappel the route.
  • Crampons and ice axe, glacier/crevasse-rescue kit.
  • Harness and helmet, light mountaineering boots.

Approach

  • From the Dammahütte SAC (2438 m) on trail to the Dammagletscher, which you reach at approx. 2880 m.
  • The path is marked blue and white, later a few cairns serve as orientation.
  • Cross the heavily crevassed Dammagletscher westward to ~3000 m, then up to the ridge/firn crest near P.3216 and the foot of the rock rib.
  • The approach to the rib has become more challenging as the glacier has become more exposed.

Descent

  • Either rappel the route (bolted stations ~15–25 m apart, 50 m rope) — time-consuming and awkward with multiple parties.
  • Or traverse over the Rhonegletscher (glacier trek) toward the Belvedere; straightforward but very long.

Conditions

  • 03.08.2003: upper Dammagletscher well snow-covered, large crevasse crossed on snow bridges ~2900 m, rock rib dry and problem-free, new rappel anchors; route-finding harder as snow melts.
  • 04.10.2009 (Günter Joos): glacier largely bare with thin new-snow bridges, complex crevasse field, bare/icy step to the rock entry (rappelled on descent), start/finish rock loose but middle enjoyable; warm, elevated rockfall risk.
  • 01.08.2014 (Urs Weisshorn): ideal glacier/firn after a clear night, Ostrippe dry, ~6 h, ZS+, ~1200 m gain.
  • 27.08.2017 (Doris Dörig): bare ice low down needing crampons, firm snow higher, steep snowfield with cut steps, dry rock, ~10 pitches; start 02:30, summit before 08:00, descent via Rhonegletscher; ‘excellent’.
  • 15.07.2024 (Sascha Wyss): ‘conditions could hardly be better’, approach over snow/firn without problems, rock dry and wonderful; early start advised due to warmth.