Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m, Arête du Diable (SW/N)

D+ / IV / 5c (5b obl.) / 2 days / 1200 m ↗ / 600 m of difficulties / 3200–4248 m / granite

One of the great Chamonix classics: a traverse of the Diable gendarmes along the SE ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul, on excellent granite, finishing on the 4248 m summit. It chains six summits over 4000 m — Corne du Diable 4064 m, Pointe Chaubert 4074 m, Pointe Médiane 4097 m, Pointe Carmen 4109 m, Pointe de l’Isolée 4114 m and the Tacul itself at 4248 m — though the traverse traditionally skips the Corne, takes the next three, makes an out-and-back to l’Isolée and exits on the summit.

How long

Camptocamp counts it as a two-day outing: a night at the hut, then one very long summit day. Parties typically leave around 1 a.m., reach the summit cap about midday, and aim to be down for the evening cable car — and queueing on the gendarmes can easily add an hour or more. Camptocamp files it simply as “une longue course à 4000 m”, so acclimatisation matters.

Route

The line first reaches the Col du Diable (3961 m), for which there are three options — the SW Couloir (AD, the recommended classic), the Macho Couloir (AD), or the Chéré Couloir (D) — and then works over the gendarmes in turn:

  • Pointe Chaubert — from the Chaubert gap up the east ridge and a fractured slab, with a step of 4c/5a (one piton).
  • Pointe Médiane — a 40 m dièdre, climbed all the way (5a/5b).
  • Pointe Carmen — cracks that are often iced, taken to the right of the east ridge (4b).
  • L’Isolée — the crux: the dièdre direct at 5c, or the Contamine variant at 4c.

Approach

  • From the Refuge Torino or the Refuge des Cosmiques.

Descent

  • By the normal route on the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul.