Aiguille du Midi 3842 m, Mallory-Porter rectifiée (N face)

AD+ / III / 5.4 / 1530 m ↗ / up to 60° / snow-ice-mixed granite

A classic, fast and reliable spring line up the north face of the Aiguille du Midi — snow slopes and short mixed steps (a little rock at UK 4a, ice runnels to 60°) to a fine snow ridge that tops out right at the ice cave of the upper cable-car station, high above Chamonix. First climbed by G. L. Mallory and H. E. L. Porter in 1919.

  • Approach: 1–1½ h from the Aiguille du Midi cable-car mid-station, skirting the base of the north face.
  • Route: 3–5 h; no major difficulties, but it tops out at ~3800 m, so needs acclimatization and the top slopes can be wind-loaded.
  • Descent: conveniently by cable car (or the Cosmiques hut / Vallée Blanche as a fallback).