Wendenhorn 3023 m, Südostgrat

Vorbau 5 / Grat 4+ (III–IV) / 2:30–4 h climbing / ~900 m ↗ / ~14 SL on the ridge + 3–4 SL Vorbau, SE orientation, solid Erstfeld gneis

The Wendenhorn is the highest elevation of the Fünffingerstöck group; its gneiss summit dominates the upper Meiental with wild, jagged ridges. The Südostgrat is a frequently repeated classic — “eine schöne, klassische Gratkletterei mit alpinem Zu- und Abstieg sowie alpiner Absicherung” — that rewards the approach with solid, varied and sometimes exposed climbing on grippy Erstfeld gneiss.

Difficulty is graded 5 in the Vorbau (the preamble), then 4+ on the ridge proper (III–IV overall). Belay stances are equipped with 2-bolt anchors, but there is little fixed protection between them, so competent use of mobile protection (cams, slings) is a must. Climbing the hard pitches from stance to stance in alpine style and moving together on the rest brings the SAC guidebook climbing time of 2:30–4 h; it goes as a day tour from the Sustenpass road.

Crux

  • Vorbau graded 5, roughly 3–4 rope lengths to a scree band (Schuttband)
  • Ridge to grade 4+ / IV, exposed sections; route-finding aided by occasional orientation bolts

Logistics

Gear

  • 50 m rope (60 m useful if belaying alternately on the first pitches)
  • 6–8 quickdraws / express
  • A few small friends and slings
  • Helmet, climbing shoes
  • Ice axe and (light) crampons, glacier gear for the approach/descent firn

Approach

  • Base: Sustlihütte SAC (2257 m); tour also feasible in a day from the Sustenpass road
  • From the Sustenbrüggli, steep path over the Firnplangg toward the Stöss / Grassen junction, then trackless west toward the ridge (approx. T4)
  • Approx. 1 to 1¼ h approach; from the Sustlihütte follow the blue-white marked Guferjoch trail to Stöss, then blue markings to the Vorbau entry

Descent

  • Per Urner Alpen 3 / SAC guide, or back to the shoulder and rappel/downclimb the NE side per the Sustlihütte topo
  • Multiple rappels through the couloir/gully; roughly 25 m rappel stations, some marked with cairns; two ropes useful
  • Final rappel/descent onto the Chli Sustlifirn — glacier with crevasse danger, some scree in the gully

Conditions

  • 08.08.2020: Good conditions on the ascent, route dry; some snow on the NE flank; descent gully somewhat scree-laden; rappel stations partly marked with cairns.
  • 09.08.2019: Entire climb dry; more bolts than expected though cam placements tricky; little, hard morning snow on approach manageable without crampons; easy transition from rappels onto the firn.
  • 03.09.2016: Mostly compact, solid rock with minor loose material near the summit; largely snow-covered, crampons used; no significant crevasse risk; demanding rappel descent that requires full concentration.
  • 07.07.2015: Top conditions, good step snow on the glacier and firn fields.