Teufelstalwand ~1800 m, Alpentraum

7a (6b+ obl.) / ~5 h / ~300-310 m ↗ / 10 SL, S-facing granite, fully bolted, 14 QDs + 2x50 m ropes

Alpentraum climbs the central, most compact section of the Teufelstalwand on a logical line straight up the wall, first ascended by R. Würsch and Ch. Linder in 2011. The ~300-310 m of climbing over 10 pitches is sustained and varied on excellent steep granite: thin finger and hand cracks, piaz/layback sections, chimneys and dihedrals, and friction slabs. The rock is high-friction orange on the crux and grey-green-black with less friction elsewhere.

The wall faces south, is sunny and largely wind-sheltered, and is best in late summer and autumn. It is fully equipped with numerous stainless-steel bolts (plaisir-style), so no cams are needed. Alpentraum is widely regarded as one of the best routes at the Teufelstalwand.

Crux

  • L6 - 7a, ~40 m: pumpy climbing on pockets/scallops, slopers and underclings; the signature crux pitch.
  • L3 - 6c: thin-hands splitter crack turning chimney-like, cited by several parties as a personal crux.

Logistics

Gear

  • 2x 50 m ropes (Doppelseil).
  • 14 quickdraws (Expressschlingen).
  • No cams required (route fully bolted); some parties bring an optional small cam ~0.75 for extra security on the L3 crack.
  • Dry socks recommended for the stream crossing.

Approach

  • Access from Nätschen (near Andermatt / Oberalppass), roughly 30 min on trail toward the top/exit of the Diavolo climbing path.
  • Rappel/abseil into the Teufelstal gorge (reports cite 3 rappels of ~40-45 m; watch for rope snags).
  • Cross the stream (often wet feet; can be problematic in early summer / high water), then use fixed ropes and grass ledges.
  • A short ascent and a ~20-30 m traverse left along a band reaches the start belay.

Descent

  • From the top (exit has a summit book), scramble/climb up using fixed ropes and traverse out via the ‘Insider-Geisswägli’.
  • Descend through forest and blocks back to the road/Nätschen (near point ~2029). One party notes ~45 min out.

Conditions

  • South-facing, sunny and largely wind-sheltered; good in late summer and autumn.
  • 07.10.2023 (Gipfelbuch, Richard Heinz): top conditions, warm on the sunny side; very popular/crowded, queue at the entrance; ~5 h, 310 m.
  • 18.08.2022 (Gipfelbuch, jo): excellent conditions; ~310 hm; a La Sportiva climbing shoe was found on the descent.
  • 15.09.2019 (Gipfelbuch, Ruedi Bergsport / Urs Odermatt): good but not perfect - too hot for the hard pitches; well bolted, steep and varied; among the better routes in the Uri granite. Best below ~20°C in Andermatt.
  • 28.09.2015 (Gipfelbuch, robik): variable weather (cool/shady then sunny/warm then windy/foggy/cool); confusing approach markings - do not descend too far; 10 pitches, ~346 m; L6 (7a, 39 m) crux.
  • 22.09.2011 (Gipfelbuch, Traumfänger): compact granite, still a little dusty just after the first ascent/cleaning; improves with each ascent and every rainfall.
  • Stream crossing in the approach gorge can be problematic in early summer with high water.