Lagginhorn 4010 m, Südgrat (S–N traverse from the Lagginjoch)

ZS, III (3a) / 30° / ±985 m ↗ / 6–7 h ↗, ±2 h ↘ / from Hohsaas

The Lagginhorn is a gently curved rock ridge running two kilometers from south to north between the Lagginjoch and the Fletschjoch, with the main summit (4010 m) at its northern end. The Südgrat follows this ridge from the Lagginjoch to the summit and is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable rock ridges in the Western Alps — bombproof rock, a magnificent position, and, despite generally moderate difficulty, sustained and airy climbing. It rewards fitness and a good head for exposure. Descent is over the WSW ridge normal route.

Guidebook reference: SAC Walliser Alpen, route R569.

Route

  • From Berghaus Hohsaas, cross to Pt. 3329 and continue up to the Lagginjoch (±1 h, guide time 1.5 h).
  • Gain the ridge over the bergschrund and steep rock slabs, then follow the Südgrat to the summit (±3.5–4 h; up to about 6 h from the Lagginjoch if rope teams rappel the exposed sections).
  • The ridge has three gendarmes (rock towers). The first is often rappelled; the second and third can be climbed if you are confident. Difficulties reach about 3a.
  • Watch out for a large loose block near the upper part of the ridge.

Logistics

Gear

  • Rope 30–40 m
  • 3–4 cams (Friends) and slings
  • ±3 quickdraws
  • Crampons and ice axe (glaciated approach)
  • Abseil gear

Approach

  • Cable car from Saas-Grund via Kreuzboden to Hohsaas, using Berghaus Hohsaas as the base.

Descent

  • Descend the WSW ridge normal route (west flank and ridge) back to Hohsaas (±2 h).

Conditions

  • Usually dry from mid- to late summer; late-July and August reports often describe the ridge free of snow and water ice, with solid footing up to the col (crampons sometimes not needed).