Galengrat-Verschneidung — Galenstock, 3586 m

6a (5c obl.) / 11 SL / 4:30 h, 330 m / SW / Granit — Einstieg 2940 m

A Furka classic on the SW side of the Galengrat, first climbed in 1966 by Hans-Peter Geier and Dieter Kienast and re-equipped over the years (Stadler 1991, Klingler 1994, Infanger & Arnold 2014/2018). Eleven pitches of solid granite up the Galengrat corner, finishing with the beautiful summit dièdre.

Pitches

SL Grade Character
1 6a Steep, well-bolted direct start; pull left at mid-height
2 5c Into a corner on the right, rising left past a small slab
3 5a Rising left to a bolt, then straight up a crack
4 5b Another crack, trending slightly left
5 6a Corner — the original pitch collapsed (Ausbruch) and is now climbed via a variant
6 5c Steep corner, then easing back to the belay
7 3b The grassy/brittle band — easy (Lunar Impulse crosses here)
8 4c Flake and steps, then trending left
9 5a Direct over small steps to a comfortable belay
10 5a Right into the magnificent summit corner
11 5a Another superb long pitch in the summit dièdre

Gear

  • 2×50 m rope; a set of cams 0.5–2 (Friends) and ~8 quickdraws; belays bolted.
  • Protection is rated so-so — a partly run-out old-school line, so climb accordingly.
  • Light crampons and an axe for the glacier approach; the bergschrund at the base can be awkward.

Approach

  • From the Furkapass (Hotel Furkablick), the Sidelenhütte path up over the moraine to the Sidelengletscher, then across the plateau to the foot of the wall — about 1 h 50.

Descent

  • Rappel the equipped line (≤50 m), or continue over the Galenstock cairn and make ~7 short rappels (<25 m) to the upper glacier.