Mangolyto - Winterstock
Winterstock, Mangolyto, Turm I 2903 m / SE
6a+ (5c+) / 8 pitches / 3–3:30 h / 270 m / Gear: 2 x 50m, 12 draws, Set of cams
Persistently difficult. This route combines technical climbing at the bottom and physical commitment at the top. Mangolyto is considered one of the most beautiful granite routes.
Sleeping in the valley under Winterstock and Lockberg shortens the approach and makes it a perfect alpine adventure.
Logistics
Parking
- Parking at Tätsch (10 CHF per day) or alternatively at Furkapass (free, limited places).
Wild Campsite
- Approach to the campsite:
- There is a stream in the campsite area. Access to the water is not a problem.
- Approach from the campsite to the base of the climb takes around 40 minutes. There are water sources on the way almost to the last bit.
- Sheep may wander in the area. It is advised not to leave gear and food outside of the tent when you are not there.
- Someone built a small pool next to the trail; a perfect place to have a bath.
Notes
- The bolting on the route is often illogical.
- In general, follow the bolts. If the terrain gets wild and dirty, you’re most likely off the route.
- In the pitch 6. do not climb directly through an overhanging boulder (around 6b/c). This variation is much harder and not protected (can be easily aided with cams - A1), the anchor is just after the boulder. The main line goes instead to the left (5b).
- Abseil station at the very top of the climb is not perfect. There is a bunch of old cords and a bolt. You might want to reinforce it.
- We abseiled down the route since going up there we faced many surprises in terms of route-finding/protection and we did not want to risk roping down the unknown terrain of Goldmarie.
- The guidebook describes the route as well protected (Swiss gut+). However, run-outs are common, and difficult places are not always protected. We took a full set of cams and were very glad we had it; placed some cams in almost all of the upper pitches.