South Ridge - Tiefenstock
South Ridge - Tiefenstock, 3515 m
WS, 2a / 1430 m ↗ / SW / Granit
Tiefenstock in the Dammakette (Winterberge chain) offers a highly rewarding high-alpine tour. Steep walls drop down to the fractured Dammagletscher on the eastern side, while the mighty Rhône Glacier gleams to the west.
Approach
The approach up the Tiefengletscher sets the tone: wild, glaciated terrain with a distinct alpine atmosphere.
Tracing a wide arc around the base of the Gletschhorn, we reach the lower Tiefengletscher. The ascent trends leftward across crevassed sections before arriving at the steep embankment below the Northern Tiefensattel (3331 m).
The Northern Tiefensattel
Here the glacier meets rock, and the terrain steepens dramatically. Depending on conditions, the glacier bergschrund can add another layer of complexity. In August 2025 we had to climb into it to be able to transfer onto the wall.
After the via ferrata cables end, we continued over brittle but well-stepped rock ledges to the narrow notch of the Nördlichen Tiefensattel (3330 m). Beware of rockfall in this area, especially when multiple parties are on the route.
Summit Ridge
From the saddle, the climb eases. The route follows blocky granite and gentle snowfields northwards along the South Ridge to the summit.
Descent
The descent follows the same line. From the Nördlichen Tiefensattel, some sections can be abseiled to speed up the downclimb and minimize exposure to rockfall.
Thanks to Daniel for the photos and an excellent day out in the Alps!