Klein Furkahorn, Gipfelplatten, 3026 m / SE

5a / 15 pitches / 3 h / 290 m / Gear: 2x50m, 12 draws, 1-2 cams

View from the climb

Very varied and interesting climb on perfect Furka granite. Much nicer than the slabs in the lower part of the mountain.

Blue and red markers lead the way.

When you finish the climb, cross the slope with loose rock following the cairns. The abseil station is easily accessible (two new bolts + old massive ring). From here a 50 m abseil takes you down to the relatively flat area from where you start walking down. It can also be climbed down (grade II - III, loose rock).

Abseil couloir

Logistics

Parking

  • Parking at Furkastrasse.
  • Approach (1:20 h). Follow the road and then the trail passing the military structures and the bunker. Blue markers lead the way.
  • Descent (1h). Go down the block field until you reach a path or cross the grass directly avoiding steep terrain.

Notes

  • The abseil from the summit can be climbed down (grade II-III terrain with loose rock). I’ve also saw an intermediate rappel anchor, two bolts. However, I cannot say whether it’s suitable for the abseil.

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