Nolens Volens / Via Franziska – Gross Bielenhorn
We had planned to climb the Niedermann-Anderrüthi but somehow ended up on different routes—twice! Still, it turned out to be an amazing day in the mountains on perfect granite. We discovered that the south face of Gross Bielenhorn is a true labyrinth of routes, sometimes a bit illogical.
It was a thrill to try Via Franziska, with its beautifully exposed crack climbing, as well as a psycho pitch of an unknown route we initially believed to be the Niedermann. Great climbing all around!
P.S. We returned 1.5 months later and finally climbed what we had originally planned—the Niedermann-Anderrüthi. Honestly, I think it’s one of the best routes I’ve ever done, certainly at Furka. Established in 1957, it has rightfully earned its status as a classic.
Routes & Pitches Climbed
Niedermann-Anderrüthi – Gross Bielenhorn, 3190 m
6b (6a) / 10 SL / 6 h / 290 m ↗ / N, SW / Granite / We climbed first 2 pitches, ±5c
Via Franziska – Gross Bielenhorn, 3190 m
6b (6a) / 10 SL / 6 h / 290 m ↗ / N, SW / Granite / We climbed the 2nd pitch, 6a+
Unknown Route – Gross Bielenhorn, 3190 m
We climbed the 2nd pitch, ±6a+
Gear
- Rope: 2 × 50 m
- Set of cams
- Slings
- 13 quickdraws
- Crampons & ice axe for the approach to the base of the climb
Approach
- Park at Furkablick.
- Follow the trail to the Siedelenhütte.
- From the hut, follow the path and cairns to the base of the wall.