Southeast Ridge - Galenstock
Southeast Ridge - Galenstock, 3586 m
S, 5b / 900 m ↗ / SW / Granit
Probably the most varied route to get to the top of Galenstock. It combines a via ferrata approach, classic ridge climbing, and snow passages – a varied adventure in a stunning alpine setting. First climbed in 1902 by R. Martin and J. Püntener, this route has become a classic.
Approach
The tour starts at the Furkablick parking lot (optionally, Tiefenbach). From there the trail leads to the Siedelenhütte. Afterwards, the path passes along the southwest face of the Gross Bielenhorn and across the Sidelengletscher. At the upper couloir, a short, well-equipped via ferrata provides safe access to the Obere Bielenlücke.
Ridge
From the col, after relatively flat snow traverse, the ridge climb begins: several rope lengths lead to the crux section which is a short, steep wall (5b, A0 possible). Above this, the ridge becomes easier and gradually leads to the final snow crest and the summit of the Galenstock (3586 m).
Descent
The descent follows over the summit snow dome and down the Galengrat, where a marked abseil point (a single 50 m rope is sufficient) leads back onto the Sidelengletscher (or rather, what’s left of it). From there, it’s a rather tiring return across dry glacier and moraine to the trail leading back to the parking lot.
Notes
Gear used
- Rope: 1 × 50 m
- 9 quickdraws
- 5 slings
- 2 cams (green and yellow Totem)
- Crampons, ice tool
Thanks to Emil for the photos and an excellent day out in the Alps!