Niedermann-Anderrüthi – Gross Bielenhorn
Niedermann-Anderrüthi – Gross Bielenhorn, 3190 m
6b (6a) / 10 SL / 6 h / 290 m ↗ / N, SW / Granite
Franz Anderrüthi, Max Niedermann, 1956
In 1956, Max Niedermann and Franz Anderrüthi established a route on Gross Bielenhorn that went on to become a true classic—a climb that will stay in your memory long after you’ve topped out.
I’m extremely happy to have climbed it in a smooth, fast-paced style, full of joy, jokes, and good vibes. It was another fantastic day in the Alps. The other teams on the route added to the positive atmosphere, and the weather was perfect—too hot on the approach, but ideal once we were on the wall, with T-shirt climbing at 3200 m.
The route is demanding, both physically and mentally, as the harder sections must be self-protected. Interestingly, some traditionalists or purists have removed many bolts, likely to preserve its original character. Opinions aside, this certainly adds a bit of spice to the experience.
Every pitch is excellent and offers a variety of styles. At the very summit, you even get to squeeze through a hole—a fun and unique finale. It’s hard to believe this route was first climbed almost 70 years ago and still remains a tough undertaking today, even with all the advantages of modern gear.
Approach
- Park at Furkablick.
- Follow the trail to the Siedelenhütte.
- From the hut, continue along the path to the wall.
- The start of the route is on the left side of a rock island at the base of the large dihedral that defines the line.
Descent
- First four abseils via Nolens Volens (be aware that some are not in the fall line), then descend via the route.
- Do not skip the first anchor while abseiling—the rope can get stuck. We made that mistake, and so did the Austrian team behind us, with the same result. Pull the rope slowly to reduce the risk.
Gear
- Rope: 2 × 50 m
- Set of cams (double up on the mid-sizes)
- 5 slings
- 12 quickdraws
- Crampons & ice axe for the approach to the base (essential in June, not needed in August - 2025)
Links
Thanks to Stefan for another excellent adventure (and amazing pictures!)