Titlis 3238 m, Via Ruedi / N / Limestone

6a+ (6a) / 17 pitches / 5–7 h / 680 m / Gear: 2x50m, 12 draws, Set of cams

  • The difficulties oscilate around 5b/5c.
  • The crux is in the 7. pitch. The topo says it’s well bolted and can be aided in case of problems.
  • Mostly solid, varied rock.
  • Pitch 5. is the highlight with interesting rock formations - chickenheads
  • Cams size 0.5 - 1; especially helpful for the 12th pitch
Foo
"Via Ruedi" © Lötscher Urs

Logistics

Parking

  • Paid parking lot at the cable car station Fürenalp

Approach

  • 1:30 h, T4+, 660m
  • The route starts at 1670 m

Descent

There are 2 options:

  1. Abseiling via the route. 16 abseils, 2-3 hours. Caution: The second abseil stand in the lower half of the wall is off the route (see topo).

  2. Climb up to Titlis from the end of the route, first on easier climbing terrain (3 - 4c, without bolts), then over glacier and firn to the Klein Titlis cable car station.