Pissoir du Diable - Teufelstalwand 2800 m

6b+ / 8 pitches / 5 h / 250 m ↗ / Granit

Logistics

The route begins on the right side of a prominent rock pillar at the base of the Teufelstalwand’s north face. First ascent: Hans Müller, Petra Schmidt, 1978 / Renovated 2010.

Gear

  • Rope: 2 x 50 m
  • Set of cams (doubled small to medium sizes)
  • Slings
  • 12 quickdraws
  • Crampons for the approach in early season

Approach & Descent

Route - Pitches

  1. 6a, 48 m beautiful wall climbing and an exciting crack passage. 50m long. The Devils last Dance branches off to the right here.
  2. 5c, 30 m up the de-botanized gully, short piazza and simply continue.
  3. 6b+, 25 m crux immediately after the belay with finger-strong moves. At the end again technically demanding on a shallow crack. Rated unusually hard for the Teufelstalwand.
  4. 5c, 25 m off to the left to a thrilling spread.
  5. 6a, 30 m First straight up in the wide gully, the pissoir, then left out onto the surprisingly grippy wall. Nice length.
  6. 5c+, 30 m After the bushes nice climbing on grippy structures.
  7. 6a+, 33 m Great length on ledges, scales and cracks. Exciting, the crux is a must.
  8. 6a, 20 m Short section up the tower. Closely bolted.