Pissoir du Diable - Teufelstalwand
Pissoir du Diable - Teufelstalwand 2800 m
6b+ / 8 pitches / 5 h / 250 m ↗ / Granit
Logistics
The route begins on the right side of a prominent rock pillar at the base of the Teufelstalwand’s north face. First ascent: Hans Müller, Petra Schmidt, 1978 / Renovated 2010.
Gear
- Rope: 2 x 50 m
- Set of cams (doubled small to medium sizes)
- Slings
- 12 quickdraws
- Crampons for the approach in early season
Approach & Descent
- Same as for Zeichen der Freundschaft
Route - Pitches
6a, 48 m
beautiful wall climbing and an exciting crack passage. 50m long. The Devils last Dance branches off to the right here.5c, 30 m
up the de-botanized gully, short piazza and simply continue.6b+, 25 m
crux immediately after the belay with finger-strong moves. At the end again technically demanding on a shallow crack. Rated unusually hard for the Teufelstalwand.5c, 25 m
off to the left to a thrilling spread.6a, 30 m
First straight up in the wide gully, the pissoir, then left out onto the surprisingly grippy wall. Nice length.5c+, 30 m
After the bushes nice climbing on grippy structures.6a+, 33 m
Great length on ledges, scales and cracks. Exciting, the crux is a must.6a, 20 m
Short section up the tower. Closely bolted.