Niedermann-Sieber (1964) - Graue Wand, 3171 m

6a (5c) / 11 SL / 6 h / 360 m ↗ / S / Granit

Logistics

  • The difficult sections are secured with bolts and are all on the south-facing cliffs.
  • Start via first 2 pitches of the route Accept (C+Y. Remy) to go around a risky detached flake in the route. Then merge into the Niedermann-Sieber route.
  • Pitches 1, 3, 9 and 10 are strenuous and require a good deal of strength.
  • The abseil path runs largely offset of the route: follow the topo carefully so as not to miss its line.
  • Various stands are off-axis and you have to swing to reach them.

Gear

  • Rope: 2 × 50 m
  • Extended set of cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Slings
  • 13 quickdraws
  • Crampons
  • Ice pick

    • Approach

    • Parking lot at Tiefenbach.
    • From Tiefenbach follow the path to the Albert-Heim-Hütte, then to the water source direction Gletschhorn, 2:15 h (730 m ↗).
    • At the end follow the moraine crest on the left bank and then overcome a steep snow slope (45°) to the right of the spur. This slope gives access to a gully through which you can reach the foot of the routes (3a). Overcoming the Bergschrund can be tricky in the second half of the season. Crampons and possibly ice axes are recommended.