Niedermann-Sieber - Graue Wand, 3171 m

6a (5c) / 11 SL / 6 h / 360 m ↗ / S / Granit

Max Niedermann, Werner Sieber, 1964/1991.

Logistics

  • The difficult sections are secured with bolts and are all on the south-facing cliffs.
  • Start via first 2 pitches of the route Accept (C+Y. Remy) to go around a detached flake in the route. Then merge into the Niedermann-Sieber route.
  • Pitches 1, 3, 9 and 10 are strenuous and require a good deal of strength.
  • The abseil path runs largely offset of the route: follow the topo carefully so as not to miss its line.
  • Various stands are off-axis and you have to swing to reach them.

Gear

  • Rope: 2 x 50 m
  • Set of cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Slings
  • 13 quickdraws
  • Crampons
  • Ice pick

Approach

  • Parking lot at Tiefenbach.
  • From Tiefenbach follow the path to the Albert-Heim-Hütte, then to the water source direction Gletschhorn, 2:15 h (730 m ↗).
  • At the end follow the moraine crest on the left bank and then overcome a steep snow slope (45°) to the right of the spur. This slope gives access to a gully through which you can reach the foot of the routes (3a).
  • The last snow slope is 45° steep, and overcoming the Bergschrund can be tricky in the second half of the season. Crampons and possibly ice axes are recommended.