Poncione di Cassina Baggio, Herbstwind Route

6a+ (6a obligatory), 12 pitches, 450 m, 4–5 h climb, 1 h approach

The Herbstwind route on the Poncione di Cassina Baggio is a delightful multi-pitch climb located in the sunny, south-facing Nufenen Pass area, near the Piansecco Hut in Switzerland’s Tessin region. This route is pleasant also in autumn when the southern exposure ensures warm conditions well into November.

Crux

  • The main difficulties (up to 6a+) are concentrated in short, steep sections with grippy schist features, particularly in the upper pitches after the initial five slab-heavy lengths.
  • The route is well-protected at cruxes with a mix of bolts and pitons, but easier sections may have wider-spaced protection, where cams can be useful for supplementation.

Logistics

Gear

  • Rope: 2 x 50 m (for abseiling)
  • Quickdraws: 12
  • Cams: Set of cams (sizes 0.5–2 recommended)
  • Slings: For extending anchors or natural features
  • Abseil gear: Essential, as descent is via the route

Approach

The approach begins at the hairpin curve “Cruina” on the Nufenen Pass road.

  • From the parking at Cruina, follow the trail to the right toward the Piansecco Hut until the junction for “Lago del Pigne.”
  • Continue on faint paths, then across a scree and boulder field to the visible base of the wall.
  • Approach time: Approximately 1 hour from the parking lot.

Descent

  • Descent is via abseiling the route, with all belay stations equipped with rings.
  • Caution: In flatter sections, ropes may get caught, so careful rope management is essential.
  • Total descent time: Approximately 2–3 hours, depending on conditions and group efficiency.

Route Description

  • The Herbstwind route spans 12 pitches over 450 meters, with a climbing time of 4–5 hours.
  • The lower sections feature moderate slab climbing (up to 5c), which is well-structured and not overly steep.
  • After the fifth pitch, the wall steepens significantly, introducing the crux sections (6a+). The route cleverly navigates through climbable zones, with the hardest moves confined to short, grippy schist bulges.
  • The rock quality is generally excellent, with generous holds in the crux areas.
  • Protection is a mix of bolts and pitons, with adequate security at the hardest points, though easier terrain may require careful navigation due to wider-spaced gear.
  • The sunny, south-facing aspect ensures pleasant climbing conditions, especially in autumn.