Er gilt als der am schwierigsten zu besteigende Berg der Alpen (Normalweg im VII. Grad).

It is considered the most difficult mountain in the Alps to climb (normal route in grade VII) - Wikipedia

Grand Capucin 3838 m, Mont-Blanc-Massiv

6b (6a+) / 500 m ↗ / SE

Voie des Suisses - Pitches 1-7 | O Sole Mio - Pitches 7-10

Topo

Filip Babicz Topo
Filip Babicz Topo

Approach

Bivoac
  • Approach (partially descending) from the top station of the Aigulle du Midi cable car (±2 hours).
  • The approach to the bivouac (at about 3300 m) is a traverse through the Vallee Blanche along the east wall of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
  • Two ways:
    1. Through crevasses, to the right just after Pointe Adolphe Rey, steeply upwards (faster, but rather dangerous)
    2. Around, almost to the north wall of Tour Ronde, from there to the plateau below Capucine, where bivouac area is (longer, but definitely safer)
Climbing Route
  • The last 100 meters of the approach to the wall is threatened by the rockfall from the gully on the left side. It is advised to cross this part quickly.
  • Route Francesco Traverse (5a, 7 pitches, 230m) can be used as an access route to O Sole mio and Voie des Suisses.

Equipment

The route is partially equipped (some pegs along the pitches, equipped belays).

  • 50-60 m half ropes
  • Cams 0.3-3 (doubled medium sizes), nuts
  • Slings, 10 quickdraws
  • Glacier equipment for the approach

Route descriptions:

Notes

  • O sole mio. FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984
  • Voie des Suisses / Schweizerführe. FA: C. Asper, M. Bron, M. Grossi & M. Morel, 1956