Ritzlihoren / Ritzlihorn 3277 m, Ärlengrätli

SS-, 5a / 7–9 h, 1830 m ↗ / 4–5 h, 1830 Hm ↘

The Ärlengrätli forms a prominent side branch of the Graugrat, which descends from P. 3192 to the east. Most rewarding, but also most difficult route to the Ritzlihoren.

The ridge covers more than one and a half kilometers of airline and therefore probably well over 2000m climbing distance.

Crux

  • The difficulties (V+) are at the big tower (2814 m), where most of the rusty pitons can be found.
  • From the tower two short abseils lead to the connecting ridge. Here you could already abseil southwards into the scree flank, but the onward route to 3192 m in the south ridge is easy and short.

Logistics

Gear

  • Rope: 2 x 50 m
  • Cams # 0.3 - 1 (+ possibly #2)
  • Slings
  • Cord to reinforce the anchors
  • 8 quickdraws
  • Hammer and pitons*

Approach

The approach starts at Handegg.

Bivouac
  • There are many great bivouac spots at the plateau at 2150 m, ±2:15 h (T4) from Handegg.
  • Start of the climb is around 40 minutes from the bivouac at the initially hidden Wissenbachlimelti (2393m).
  • Total time from the bivouac site at 2150 m via Ärlengrätli and back: 8-15 hours.

Descent

  • Memorize the descent glacier gully as the terrain is unclear on the descent.
  • It is critical to check the anchors. Some slings are old and some spikes are razor sharp.
  • Do not skip the belay on a small spike with red rope.
  • Abseils are often 50 m.
  • Maybe consider taking a hammer and some pitons and slings.

Parking