Weissmies Traverse
Weissmies 4017 m
Zwischbergenpass – Weissmies WS+ (SSE Ridge) - II / 3 h / 780 Hm ↗ Weissmies – Weissmieshütte WS (Normal route) - Ice up to 40° / 3 h, 1300 m ↘
The Weissmies is the highest peak of the Weissmies-Lagginhorn-Fletschhorn trio. The summit rises in the Valais Alps between the Saas Valley and the southern Simplon region.
The normal route from the Almagellerhütte leads via the Zwischenbergpass and easy block climbing over the south ridge to the summit. The ridge climb can be started directly from the pass (more fun, faster if you are a climber).
Alternatively, you can go up the snow field on the right to gain altitude then traverse left onto the ridge later.
Finally, the rocky ridge transforms into a snowy field. There is a short, mildly exposed section to go through. Otherwise, this part is just walking.
If the snow conditions are good, descending via the normal route on the other side to Hohsaas is just a steep walk. However, it can become challenging when the glacier is exposed. In such a case there are at least two steep places that require care and focus.
Logistics
- Sleeping in Almagellerhütte is a natural option. However, the conditions are rather unpleasant - it may be hot and noisy.
- It is possible to camp at the Zwischbergenpass (no water access, snow for melting usually available).
- Camping near the Almagellerhütte is also possible, with access to a nearby stream.
Parking
- Parking at Saas Grund, then bus to Saas Almagell.
Notes
- You can find out in advance at the hut whether fixed ropes are already installed in the crevasse zone.
- Hohsaas cable car ticket is 3 CHF cheaper if you buy it in the SBB app.
- There is a restaurant at the Hohsaas cable car station where you can eat good and reasonably priced Rösti. Down in the valley there is almost nothing, not even a shop.